Property guide
Solar Panels on 1920 to 1965 Homes
Interwar and early post-war housing: hipped roofs, clay and early concrete tile, central chimneys and modest incoming supplies.
What characterises housing of this period
Between the wars and into the early post-war years, Britain built at scale: semi-detached suburbs, council estates, ribbon development along arterial roads. The construction is broadly consistent — cavity walls, a cut timber roof, clay tile early on and concrete tile from the 1950s — but the roof shapes are not. Hips, gables, bays, catslides and later extensions all turn up, sometimes on the same street.
For solar, this is generally good territory. Pitches tend to be conventional, the timber is sawn to reasonable sections, and the roofs are high enough to escape most ground-level shading. The complications are about shape rather than substance.
Hipped roofs and usable area
The defining constraint of the period. A hipped roof presents a trapezoid, not a rectangle, and an array laid onto it loses panels at both top corners. Keeping the required clearance from the hip lines and the ridge costs more area again.
The practical consequence is that a house which looks like it should take fourteen panels takes ten, and those ten may split across two slopes. Where the hips face east and west, splitting the array deliberately across both is often a better outcome than crowding one face.
Chimneys and shading
Interwar houses were built with fireplaces, and the stacks are frequently central or on the party wall. A central stack casts a moving shadow across one slope for part of the day and the other slope later — a genuine loss, not a theoretical one, and it lands on the middle of the roof rather than the edge.
We assess this properly at survey rather than assuming an optimiser will absorb it. Sometimes the answer is per-panel electronics, sometimes it is a layout that simply leaves the shaded band empty.
Covering condition
Clay tiles of the 1920s and 30s are usually sound if the nibs and fixings are. Early concrete tiles are the ones to watch: fifty to seventy years of frost gets into the surface, and delaminated or crazed tiles break when handled. Many roofs of this age were built without sarking felt, or with bitumen felt that has since perished into strips.
Where a covering is near the end of its life, re-covering before installation is almost always the cheaper sequence. Putting an array onto a roof that needs stripping in five years means paying for removal and refit as well.
Structure, access and electrics
These are cut roofs, not trusses, so members are individual and spacing varies. Loft hatches are small and eaves headroom is tight, which affects how DC cable is routed and where an inverter can sensibly be sited and later serviced.
On the electrical side, the board is often a 1990s or 2000s replacement that is serviceable but full. The bigger question is the main fuse and the meter position, particularly where storage and vehicle charging are planned. Generation up to 16A per phase — around 3.68kW single phase — is notified under G98 after commissioning; anything above that is a G99 application that must be approved before work starts.
Limitations
Bay windows and porch roofs are not usable. Rear extensions frequently sit at a shallower pitch or a different orientation and need assessing on their own terms. And a hipped roof with a central stack and mature trees to the south will produce a modest system — worth having, but worth being honest about first.
What we check on this type of property
- Hipped roofs cut the corners off a rectangular array and reduce usable area
- Central chimney stacks shade part of the roof for a portion of every day
- Early concrete tiles from the 1950s and 60s can be delaminated or crazed
- Many roofs of this period have no sarking felt, or felt that has perished
- Loft access is often through a small hatch with limited headroom at the eaves
- Main fuse rating and consumer unit capacity need checking before sizing
- Rear extensions add roof planes at different pitches and orientations
- Cut roofs of this era predate trussed construction and vary in timber section
Common questions
Does a hipped roof mean fewer panels?
Usually. The hips take the corners off, so a slope that measures well on a footprint gives a smaller usable rectangle once you keep clear of the hip line and the ridge. It is not a reason to avoid solar, but it is a reason to measure the roof properly rather than estimate from an aerial image. A hipped house often ends up with two smaller arrays on adjacent slopes instead of one large one.
Will the chimney be a problem?
It will shade something. On a central stack the shadow tracks across one slope in the morning and the other in the afternoon, so the question is how many panels it touches and for how long. We assess it across the year at survey. Where a small number of panels are affected, per-panel electronics limit the loss; where a lot are, we redesign the layout instead.
My roof has no felt under the tiles. Does that matter?
It affects the method rather than the feasibility. Without sarking there is nothing behind the tile to catch wind-driven rain, so tiles have to go back precisely and any that are damaged replaced rather than patched. It also tells us something about the age of the covering, which feeds into whether re-covering before installation is the sensible order of work.
Is my incoming supply big enough?
For a typical array on its own, almost always. Where it becomes a question is when a battery and an EV charger join the system. We check the main fuse rating and the meter arrangement at survey, and where the fuse is undersized for what you want, that is a conversation with the network operator before the design is fixed.
Related services
- Solar panel installationSurvey, design, roof works, electrical works and commissioning for a domestic solar PV system.
- Solar and battery systemsPanels, hybrid inverter and storage designed as one system, on one scaffold, with one commissioning.
- EV charger installationHome charge points installed with a proper load assessment, PEN fault protection and solar-aware scheduling.
- Bird proofingMesh and clip systems to keep pigeons out from under an array, fitted to the panels rather than the roof.
The technology behind it
- Solar panelsWhat a domestic solar panel is, how it is built, and which specifications on the datasheet actually matter.
- Power optimisersPer-panel DC electronics that keep conversion in one accessible box: the middle option between string and micro.
- Hybrid invertersA single unit managing array, battery and house demand, and when fitting one is worth the extra cost.
Property and roof guides
- 1930s semi-detached homesThe classic suburban semi — hipped or gabled roof, party wall stack, bay window and a side elevation that changes everything.
- Tile roofsConcrete interlocking, clay pantile and plain tile — the most common covering we work on, and the most forgiving.
- Post-1965 homesTrussed rafter roofs, concrete interlocking tile and modern electrics — the most straightforward housing stock to work on.
See it on a real installation
Further reading
- Roof orientation and shadingHow aspect, pitch and obstructions change what a roof can produce, and what can be done about shading.
- How many solar panels do I need?Why panel count is set by your electricity consumption and the usable area of your roof, not by the size of your house.
- What happens during a solar surveyWhat a surveyor measures, inspects and asks about, and why a quotation without a survey is unreliable.
Where we work
Information reviewed on 2026-08-23.
Find out what your property can take
Every design starts with a survey of the actual roof, structure and electrics rather than an assumption about the property type.
Tell us about your property
No obligation. We will review the details, come back to arrange the next step, and issue a written design and fixed quotation before anything is agreed.
Prefer to talk? Call 0118 227 7444.
