Property guide
Solar Panels on Pre-1920 Homes
Solar on Victorian and Edwardian houses: brittle coverings, irregular rafters, ageing electrics and planning sensitivity.
What characterises a pre-1920 roof
Houses built before the First World War were roofed in natural slate or handmade clay, laid over sawn timber that was sized by rule of thumb rather than calculation. A century of repairs, extensions, re-covering and loft conversions sits on top of that. No two are the same, and very little about them is standard.
That is the honest starting point. A survey on a house of this age tells us more than on any other type of property, because almost nothing can be assumed from the outside.
Covering and structure
Natural slate is thin, brittle and holed rather than nibbed. It cannot be lifted and relieved the way an interlocking tile can, so hooks for slate work differently and the number of slates disturbed has to be kept to a minimum. Nail sickness is common on roofs of this age — the fixings corrode long before the slate itself fails — and a roof that is close to needing re-covering is better re-covered first, with the array going on afterwards.
Handmade clay peg and plain tiles are similarly fragile and considerably more fiddly than modern interlocking tile.
Underneath, rafter centres wander. Spacings of anything from 300mm to well over 500mm turn up on the same slope, sometimes because of an old repair, sometimes because that is simply how it was cut. Sections can be light by modern standards, and we regularly find timbers weakened by past notching for services, historic water ingress or beetle. Rail-based mounting handles irregular centres, but only once the centres have actually been measured.
Electrical implications
The array is the easy half. On a house of this age the consumer unit is frequently the constraint — an older board with no spare ways, no RCD protection, or a rewireable fuse carrier that is not a sensible thing to connect a generation circuit to. Main earthing and bonding often predate current requirements, particularly where a supply has been altered piecemeal.
None of that is unusual and none of it is a reason not to proceed. It does need pricing honestly at survey rather than appearing as a variation on install day. Main fuse rating also matters, especially if a battery and an EV charger are planned alongside.
Design, layout and mounting
Chimney stacks, valleys, dormers and parapets carve these roofs into small usable rectangles. A design that ignores them looks wrong and shades itself. We set panels back from verges and ridges, work around stacks rather than under them, and accept a smaller array where the alternative is an ugly one.
In-roof mounting is worth considering here. It sits the panels flush with the slate line, which is often what makes an array acceptable on a prominent elevation, and it suits a roof being re-covered anyway. All-black panels with black frames read far better against slate than silver framing.
Access and limitations
Terraced frontages, narrow side alleys, on-street parking and high ridges all make scaffolding more involved and more expensive than on a modern estate house. Where access needs a pavement licence from the highway authority, that takes lead time.
The limitations are real. Some pre-1920 roofs are not worth loading until they are re-covered. Some frontages should not carry panels at all. Where that is the case, a rear slope, an outbuilding or a garden array is usually the better conversation.
What we check on this type of property
- Natural slate and handmade clay coverings are brittle and unforgiving of poor fixing method
- Rafter spacing is rarely regular, so the array is set out against what is actually there
- Timbers may be undersized by modern standards, or weakened by rot, beetle or past alterations
- Consumer units and wiring often need attention before a system can be connected
- Earthing arrangements may predate current requirements and need upgrading
- Street-facing elevations attract more planning attention than rear slopes
- Conservation area or listed status changes what is permitted and what needs consent
- Chimney stacks, dormers and parapets break the roof into small usable areas
Common questions
Is my roof strong enough for solar panels?
Often yes, but it is a question we answer from the loft rather than the pavement. On pre-1920 roofs we are looking at rafter section, span, spacing and condition, along with any signs of spread at the wall plate or sagging along the ridge. Where the structure is marginal we say so, and where a structural engineer is needed we tell you before you commit to a design.
Will slates get broken?
Some disturbance is unavoidable, and on old slate a proportion of what is lifted will not go back. We allow for replacements in the quotation and match as closely as the roof allows. The method matters more than the material: slate cannot be relieved the way a tile can, so the fixing detail is different and the work is slower.
Do I need planning permission?
Most domestic solar on an unlisted house outside a conservation area falls under permitted development, but limits and conditions apply. In a conservation area, on a front elevation facing a highway, or on a listed building, the position changes and consent may well be needed. We check the designation for your address at survey rather than assuming.
Does the wiring need replacing first?
Sometimes. Rubber or fabric-insulated cable, a rewireable fuse board or no main earth are all things we find on houses of this age, and they have to be resolved before a generation system is connected. Frequently the answer is a new consumer unit and some remedial work rather than a full rewire, but we confirm that at survey.
Related services
- Solar panel installationSurvey, design, roof works, electrical works and commissioning for a domestic solar PV system.
- In-roof solarPanels integrated into the roof covering rather than mounted above it, with the weathering detailed properly.
- Solar panel removal and refitTaking an array down for roof work, extensions or repairs, and putting it back properly afterwards.
- Solar health checkA one-off independent assessment of an existing system, with a written report on its condition and performance.
The technology behind it
- All-black panelsPanels with black frames, black backsheets and concealed busbars, and what the appearance costs in output and in price.
- Mounting systemsHooks, rails, clamps and fixings — the part of the installation that decides whether the roof stays watertight.
- Power optimisersPer-panel DC electronics that keep conversion in one accessible box: the middle option between string and micro.
Property and roof guides
- Victorian terracesNarrow slate slopes, party walls, rear back-additions and scaffolding through a shared alley — terraced solar on its own terms.
- Slate roofsNatural and fibre cement slate — brittle, holed rather than nibbed, and unforgiving of the wrong fixing method.
- Listed buildings and conservation areasWhere permitted development rights are reduced or removed, listed building consent is a separate process, and design choices decide the outcome.
See it on a real installation
Further reading
- Do I need planning permission for solar panels?When roof-mounted solar falls under permitted development, and the property types where consent is likely to be needed.
- What happens during a solar surveyWhat a surveyor measures, inspects and asks about, and why a quotation without a survey is unreliable.
- Scaffolding and access for solarWhy scaffolding is needed, what affects the cost and duration, and what to expect around your property.
Where we work
Information reviewed on 2026-08-23.
Find out what your property can take
Every design starts with a survey of the actual roof, structure and electrics rather than an assumption about the property type.
Tell us about your property
No obligation. We will review the details, come back to arrange the next step, and issue a written design and fixed quotation before anything is agreed.
Prefer to talk? Call 0118 227 7444.
